I'm sorry but how many times can you listen to "Buffalo Soldier" before you just drown yourself in whatever body of Carribbean water you happen to be near?

I have no big problem with Reggae. Not my favorite music, but I don't hate it. What I can't stand is that people seem to listen to the same Reggae over and over and over. I really like certain not-so-Reggae songs by Counting Crows, Josh Joplin and Steve Earle, but if subjected to them repeatedly I'd have to relieve myself of consciousness somehow. I'm surprised we haven't worn out every recording of "One World" ever produced.

Abandoned Beach in Punta Uva

"Immigration doesn't let you leave the country."
As you might have gathered by now, I've never been a big beach bum. I enjoy the beach. It's pretty and relaxing. But given a choice I'll going to the mountains or nice city any day. But when you're in Costa Rica, immigration doesn't let you leave the country until you've purchased the one dollar exit stamp and visited a beach. So I headed for the Carribbean coast and a beach I'd been told was more or less deserted.

Wrong. Not only were there plenty of burned out Reggae hippies there, I managed to pick the hotel conveniently located between the two venues where they like to hold all-night Reggae festivals. Lovely. But it was only for two nights and the beaches were simply unbelievable, so it was quite worth it.

Alone on the Beach in Punta Uva

"...and not see anyone else."
The beaches were, in fact, mostly deserted. I walked about an hour down the beach and passed no more than twenty people the entire time. There were many of occasions when you could look up and down the endless coastline and not see anyone else.

And there was no trash. Not that I wasn't looking, either. I'm always a little grossed out by the cigarette butts and other crap on the beach. But it was practically nonexistant here. No butts. No empty cans or bottles. And most importantly... only a limited number of large European men in Speedos. Costa Rica really is different.

I'm off tomorrow for Panama by way of a fairly remote border crossing near the coast. My flight to Ecuador is next Sunday the seventh.