It was so easy when I could talk with people in their native language. Even if my Spanish sucked, they at least understood me. Then it was up to me to understand what they rattled back. It's very different here.

English, oddly, is the single official language of Namibia. Odd because it seems almost no one speaks it as their first language. Indigenous people speak a variety of tribal languages and European locals generally speak Afrikaans or German far better than English.

"You're expected to speak English."
This leaves you with a strange communications situation. Nearly everyone speaks some English. Most businesses do things in English. You're expected to speak English. But the problem is people generally seem to be fluent only with situations and words that are part of their routine. If you venture away from that, you're on your own.

Order a meal at a restaurant and you're fine. Ask if that meal is made with dairy products and you'll likely find a blank stare. Ask for 30 minutes of internet time at a cafe without a problem. Inquire as to whether it's possible to use a CD drive and prepare to explain many, many times.

"There's less of a hangover from apartheid here."
But I like Namibia more than South Africa. Maybe it's because there are fewer people. Or maybe because there's less of a hangover from apartheid here.

Matt's Boot on the Sands of Soussesvlei

(Since South Africa governed what's now Namibia until the early 90's, there was apartheid here too.) It's an easier place to enjoy than South Africa for some reason.

Now that we're firmly settled into the backpacker hostel routine, I thought I'd share with you some tips on such living arrangements. Keeping in mind that you're sharing bathroom, sleeping and kitchen facilities with young people of varying degrees of considerate thinking, some ideas on keeping sane while spending less than $10 a night on lodging.

Tips on Hosteling

• Ask the prices for everything. Many places have cheap beds, but then charge outrageous prices for crappy internet or laundry.
• Shower early or late. Just because they have dozens of guests doesn't mean they paid for an adequate water heater.
• Ignore any signs about three minute showers due to a water emergency. We've seen it many times and it's usually not quite true. Take a reasonably-timed shower.
• Talk to people. Sounds obvious but sometimes I get all shy and forget this part. You're gonna have a crappy time if you don't get to know who you're sharing the place with.
• Mind the sponge. Everyone is supposed to do their own dishes... and usually with the same provided sponge. This is a recipe for intestinal disaster.
• Don't assume anything in the kitchen is clean (see above).
• If you see someone with a guitar, run. If the person is white and has dreds, run harder.
• Any food in sight without a clear label of ownership is fair game. Enjoy what you dare eat and label your own food.
• If entering a dorm room where others are sleeping, be respectful but don't knock yourself out being quiet. They wouldn't.
• Earplugs.
• If the hostel's brochure describes the place as "extreme," "rad," or "vibey," consider other options.

Matt and I are still waiting for word on whether we're going to share a ride to Opuwo with a girl from South Africa we got in touch with. Opuwo's a tiny town all the way north in Namibia... near the border with Angola. There's not even a bus that goes there. If we can't get a ride, we'll probably take a bus to the closest town and then hitch or take collective taxis on to Opuwo.