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"There's just enough of a tourism infrastructure to make it enjoyable."

Beach Paradise
October 6, 2003
Nungwi, Zanzibar Island, Tanzania

Beach Paradise
Nungwi, Zanzibar Island, Zanzibar
Sunday October 7, 2003

I'm not one to go around using the phrase "beach paradise." Like "driving perfection" and "culinary delight," it sounds like something that exists only in the minds of marketers.

But we found a beach paradise at the northern end of Zanzibar island in Nungwi. A two hour drive from Stone Town, this small beach town is in the tourism sweet spot somewhere between being able to do internet while eating veggie pizzas... and being able to bungee jump and eat at Planet Hollywood. There's just enough of a tourism infrastructure to make it enjoyable.

"Blue water comes up to glaringly white sandy beaches."
It's the most beautiful beach I've ever seen. The perfectly clear blue water comes up to glaringly white sandy beaches. Considering the absence of big resort companies to sanitize everything, it's all surprisingly clean. And the Indian Ocean is so tranquil here that it looks far more lake-like than Lake Malawi.

A few beachfront restaurants offer lunch and dinner for less than five dollars. I ate octopus for the first time. Our hotel room was a bit pricey at $20, but was new, clean and well-run. Not so bad split two ways.

"Home to some amazing-looking animals."
I've never seen anything like the fish we saw when we went snorkeling off the coast of a small nearby island. It's a somewhat famous coral reef, we're told, and is home to some amazing-looking animals.

It was my first serious attempt at snorkeling and proved beyond doubt that I should never attempt Scuba diving. With just a mask and air tube, I nearly drowned myself several
Sunset on our Beach Paradise
times and frequently could not remember how to breathe. And this was while my head was above water. Please never, ever let me try it with an oxygen tank and wetsuit on.

"Some fish were the size of a football."
But about the fish. I guess it was like swimming in a tropical fish aquarium... only they were much bigger. Some fish were the size of a football; smaller ones swam in schools that could completely engulf you. Sometimes I'd hold my breath and swim down for a closer look. The fish would swim away, but with the fins on you could swim with them. Being a couple of feet away from an electric blue and yellow fish the size of your head is a very cool thing.

The only problem with the trip was that the reef is an hour-and-a-half boat ride from our hotel. We both got quite seasick, and were the only ones in the boat to have trouble. It'll be a while before my appetite comes completely back.

But not being too into laying around on even the most beautiful beach, we'll head back for Stone Town tomorrow before we catch a ferry back to the mainland.

posted at 10:30pm Local Time

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